Works Progress Administration

WPA Writers’ Program — American Guide Series2.0

Cover of New York: A Guide to the Empire State, American Guide Series

American Guide Series · Volume 32

New York

A Guide to the Empire State

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Introduction

In the Nature of a Self-Portrait

The Empire State guide opens not with a writer but with a governor. “This Guide,” Herbert H. Lehman declares in his foreword, “aims to present the colorful, historic past and the many-sided contemporary life of New York State” — and then, in a single sweeping passage, he traces that life from the Indian fur trade and the pioneer sawmill to a commonwealth that has risen to preeminence among the states in commerce and industry. On its battlefields, he reminds the reader, liberty was won and made secure; since its farms fed the armies of the Revolution it has kept a high rank in agriculture; in education, public welfare, and conservation it has shown the way.

What the New York State Writers’ Project set out to capture is the sheer simultaneity of all this. Lehman’s foreword promises a book in which things are “described side by side, as they occur on city streets or along State highways” — great industrial plants and broad farm lands, welfare institutions and bathing beaches, colleges and churches, battle sites and museums, canals and bridges, all the evidences of an active and enlightened life. For the visitor, he writes, the volume is an introduction to the Empire State; for the people of New York it is “in the nature of a self-portrait.”

The portrait was a community effort, as supervisor Bertrand M. Wainger makes plain in his preface: the book “could hardly have been compiled without the co-operation of the community which is its subject.” The New York State Historical Association and the Bureau of State Publicity lent their names and their archives; specialists supplied the chapters on public welfare, forestry, and agriculture; libraries and museums in Buffalo, Rochester, and Auburn opened office space to Project workers. Wainger reserves his warmest thanks for the several hundred men and women who had a hand in the book — many since gone on to private employment or to careers as free-lance writers — and notes that, but for a few small towns, the population figures throughout were drawn from the preliminary report of the 1940 Census.

The guide’s architecture reflects its ambition. Part I, “The General Background,” runs from the New York countryside — an essay by the historian Dixon Ryan Fox — through geology, the Indians, history, transportation, industry and labor, the ethnic groups, and the arts. Part II profiles the cities and special points of interest, from Albany and Buffalo to New York City, Niagara Falls, and West Point. Part III is a vast touring section — forty numbered automobile tours, with Hudson River and Long Island tours among them — threading the state from the Connecticut line to Lake Erie. A chronology, a bibliography, and an index close the book.

Contents

Table of Contents

New York: A Guide to the Empire State
Foreword · by Herbert H. Lehman, Governor of New Yorkv
Prefacevii
General Informationxxi
Calendar of Annual Eventsxxvii
Part I · The General Background
The New York Countryside · by Dixon Ryan Fox3
Geology and Topography27
Plant and Animal Life37
Conservation and Recreation43
Archeology and Indians49
History58
Transportation75
Agriculture86
Industry92
Labor101
Ethnic Groups105
Folklore111
Public Welfare118
Religion126
Education131
Newspapers and Radio135
Sports141
The Arts144
Architecture163
Part II · Cities and Special Points of Interest
Albany181
Auburn198
Binghamton202
Buffalo206
Elmira229
Ithaca234
New Rochelle244
New York City249
Niagara Falls271
Poughkeepsie280
Rochester286
Saratoga Springs305
Schenectady316
Syracuse328
Troy343
Utica353
West Point361
Yonkers370
Part III · Tours
Tour 1 · (Greenwich, Conn.) — Port Chester — New Rochelle — New York City [US 1]379
Tour 2 · Junction US 202 and US 9W — Suffern — (Morristown, N.J.) [US 202]382
Tour 3 · New York City — Suffern — Binghamton — Elmira — Corning — Olean — Salamanca — Jamestown — Westfield [State 17]383
Section a · New Jersey Line to Western Junction with US 6384
Section b · Western Junction with US 6 to Binghamton385
Section c · Binghamton to Elmira387
Section d · Elmira to Olean388
Section e · Olean to Westfield391
Tour 4 · (Danbury, Conn.) — Brewster — Carmel — Peekskill — Goshen — Port Jervis — (Milford, Pa.) [US 6]394
Section a · Connecticut Line to Peekskill394
Section b · Peekskill to Eastern Junction with State 17396
Section c · Eastern Junction with State 17 to Western Junction with State 17397
Section d · Western Junction with State 17 to Port Jervis398
Tour 5 · Amenia — Millbrook — Poughkeepsie — Kerhonkson [US 44]399
Section a · Amenia to Poughkeepsie399
Section b · Poughkeepsie to Kerhonkson401
Tour 6 · Kingston — Ellenville — Wurtsboro — Port Jervis — (Milford, Pa.) [US 209]404
Tour 7 · (Great Barrington, Mass.) — Hillsdale — Hudson — Catskill — Grand Gorge — Oneonta [State 23]405
Section a · Massachusetts Line to Catskill406
Section b · Catskill to Oneonta407
Tour 8 · (Pittsfield, Mass.) — Albany — Cherry Valley — Sangerfield — La Fayette — Auburn — Geneva — Canandaigua — Fredonia — Westfield — (Erie, Pa.) [US 20]413
Section a · Massachusetts Line to Albany414
Section b · Albany to Sangerfield416
Section c · Sangerfield to La Fayette421
Section d · La Fayette to Auburn424
Section e · Auburn to Western Junction with State 5427
Section f · Western Junction with State 5 to Western Junction with US 20A435
Section g · Western Junction with US 20A to Pennsylvania Line437
Tour 8A · Eastern Junction with US 20 — Western Junction with US 20 [US 20A]440
Tour 9 · Albany — Berne — Junction with State 30 [State 43]444
Tour 10 · (Bennington, Vt.) — Troy — Schenectady — Oneonta — Binghamton [State 7]446
Section a · Vermont State Line to Troy446
Section b · Troy to Oneonta447
Section c · Oneonta to Binghamton450
Tour 11 · Albany — Utica — Syracuse — Auburn — Batavia — Buffalo — Dunkirk — (Erie, Pa.) [State 5]453
Section a · Albany to Utica453
Section b · Utica to Syracuse465
Section c · Syracuse to Western Junction with US 20470
Section d · Western Junction with US 20 to Buffalo470
Section e · Buffalo to Pennsylvania Line474
Tour 12 · Schenectady — Canajoharie — Utica — Rome — Wampsville [State 5S]476
Tour 13 · Schuylerville — Saratoga Springs — Johnstown — Dolgeville — Middleville [State 29]488
Tour 14 · Hague — Wevertown — Speculator — Utica [State 8]492
Tour 15 · Wevertown — Blue Mountain Lake — Old Forge — Herkimer — Oneonta — Kingston [State 28]494
Section a · Wevertown to Blue Mountain Lake495
Section b · Blue Mountain Lake to Alder Creek497
Section c · Alder Creek to Oneonta499
Section d · Oneonta to Kingston502
Tour 16 · Jay — Wilmington — Lake Placid — Saranac Lake — Lake Clear Junction [State 86]505
Tour 16A · Lake Placid — Keene — Keene Valley — Junction with US 9 [State 86A]509
Tour 17 · Plattsburg — Saranac Lake — Tupper Lake — Watertown — Hannibal [State 3]512
Section a · Plattsburg to Tupper Lake512
Section b · Tupper Lake to Watertown515
Section c · Watertown to Hannibal516
Tour 18 · Rouses Point — Malone — Watertown — Syracuse — Binghamton — (Scranton, Pa.) [US 11]518
Section a · Rouses Point to Malone518
Section b · Malone to Watertown520
Section c · Watertown to Syracuse525
Section d · Syracuse to Pennsylvania Line526
Tour 19 · Malone — Massena — Ogdensburg — Watertown [State 37]530
Tour 20 · (Montreal, P.Q.) — Plattsburg — Hoosick Falls — White Plains — New York City [State 22]535
Section a · Canadian Line to Whitehall536
Section b · Whitehall to Hillsdale540
Section c · Hillsdale to New York City543
Tour 21 · (Montreal, P.Q.) — Rouses Point — Plattsburg — Glens Falls — Saratoga Springs — Albany — Poughkeepsie — New York City [US 9]551
Section a · Canadian Line to Lake George552
Section b · Lake George to Albany558
Section c · Albany to Poughkeepsie561
Section d · Poughkeepsie to New York City574
Tour 21A · Albany — Catskill — Kingston — Newburgh — (Jersey City, N.J.) [US 9W]589
Section a · Albany to Kingston590
Section b · Kingston to New Jersey Line597
Tour 21B · Hudson — Germantown — East Park — Poughkeepsie [State 9G]607
Tour 21C · (Hudson River Boat Tour) Albany — Hudson — Kingston — Poughkeepsie — Newburgh — New York City [Hudson River]612
Tour 22 · (Fair Haven, Vt.) — Whitehall — Hudson Falls — Schuylerville — Troy — Junction with US 20 [US 4]623
Tour 23 · Ticonderoga — Lake George — Saratoga Springs [State 9N and State 9K]628
Tour 24 · Junction with State 8 — Wells — Amsterdam — Wright (Sidney’s Corners) — Schoharie — Middleburg — Grand Gorge — Roxbury — East Branch [State 30]630
Section a · Junction State 8 to Wright (Sidney’s Corners)630
Section b · Wright (Sidney’s Corners) to Grand Gorge631
Section c · Grand Gorge to East Branch636
Tour 25 · Alexandria Bay — Clayton — Watertown — Boonville — Utica — Norwich — Binghamton [State 12]638
Section a · Alexandria Bay to Utica638
Section b · Utica to Binghamton642
Tour 26 · Maple View — Oswego — Rochester — Lewiston — Niagara Falls [US 104]645
Section a · Maple View to Rochester645
Section b · Rochester to Niagara Falls649
Tour 27 · Sodus Point — Geneva — Watkins Glen — Elmira — (Troy, Pa.) [State 14]653
Section a · Sodus Point to Geneva653
Section b · Geneva to Pennsylvania Line653
Tour 28 · Dresden — Penn Yan — Hammondsport — Bath [State 54]656
Tour 29 · Pultneyville — Naples — Hornell — (Knoxville, Pa.) [State 21]659
Section a · Pultneyville to Wayland659
Section b · Wayland to Pennsylvania Line661
Tour 30 · Rochester — Manchester — Waterloo — Ithaca — Owego [State 2]663
Section a · Rochester to Waterloo663
Section b · Waterloo to Owego665
Tour 31 · Rochester — Bath — Painted Post — (Mansfield, Pa.) [US 15]667
Tour 32 · Vernon — Weedsport — Newark — Rochester — Lockport — Niagara Falls [State 234 and State 31]669
Section a · Vernon to Rochester669
Section b · Rochester to Niagara Falls672
Tour 33 · Rochester — Batavia — Buffalo [State 33]675
Tour 34 · Junction with US 20A — Dunkirk [State 39]676
Tour 35 · North Hamlin — Le Roy — Warsaw — Wellsville — (Galeton, Pa.) [State 19]678
Section a · North Hamlin to Warsaw679
Section b · Warsaw to Pennsylvania Line680
Tour 36 · Olcott — Lockport — Depew [State 78]681
Tour 37 · Niagara Falls — Buffalo — Gowanda — (Warren, Pa.) [US 62]683
Tour 38 · Buffalo — East Aurora — Yorkshire — Olean — (Bradford, Pa.) [State 16 and State 16A]685
Tour 39 · Hamburg — Springville — Salamanca — (Bradford, Pa.) [US 219]687
Tour 40 · Poughkeepsie — New York City [State 55, Eastern State Parkway, Bronx River Parkway Extension, Saw Mill River Parkway]689
Long Island
North Shore Tour · Queensboro Bridge — Roslyn — Huntington — Kings Park — Smithtown — Smithtown Branch — Port Jefferson — Junction with State 25 [State 25A]694
Jericho Turnpike Tour · Queensboro Bridge — Mineola — Westbury — Smithtown — Ridge — Riverhead — Orient Point [State 25]699
Center Island Tour · Queensboro Bridge — Hempstead — Farmingdale — Ronkonkoma — Yaphank — Riverhead — Hampton Bays [State 25, State 24, County Roads]702
South Shore Tour · Manhattan Bridge — Valley Stream — Freeport — Sayville — Southampton — Montauk Point [State 27]706
Part IV · Appendices
Chronology719
Bibliography729
Index741

Library Record

Full Bibliographic Record

Title
New York: A Guide to the Empire State
Author
Compiled by Workers of the Writers’ Program of the Work Projects Administration in the State of New York (New York State Writers’ Project)
Series
American Guide Series
Sponsor
New York State Historical Association, with the Bureau of State Publicity, New York State Conservation Department (state-wide sponsor)
Foreword
Herbert H. Lehman, Governor of New York
Preface
Bertrand M. Wainger, Supervisor
Publisher
Oxford University Press, New York
Publication Date
First published November 1940 (copyright 1940 by the New York State Historical Association)
Description
Illustrated: plates, maps; roman-numeral front matter through xxvii, main text paginated to 741 (index). Includes a chronology, a bibliography, and an index; population figures drawn from the preliminary report of the 1940 Census.
Subjects
Automobile travel — New York (State) — Guidebooks; New York (State) — Description and travel; New York (State) — History; New York (State) — Guidebooks