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WPA Writers’ Program — American Guide Series2.0

Cover of Oregon: End of the Trail, American Guide Series

American Guide Series · Volume 37

Oregon

End of the Trail

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Introduction

A Fadeless Film of a Civilization

The Oregon Guide, its preface declares, is the product of many hands and minds working joyously, without hope of individual reward or recognition. The members of the Oregon Writers’ Project spoke, as they put it, collectively and anonymously — carpenters of language with words as tools, finding facts and fashioning them into sentences and chapters. They worked, moreover, in faith that the book would outlast its first usefulness: long after the best road of the day had been supplanted and the highest building had crumbled, this volume would remain “a treasure trove of history, a picture of a period, and a fadeless film of a civilization.”

“It was easy to write about Oregon,” the writers admitted, for the state inspires not provincial patriotism but affection. California has climate, Iowa has corn, Massachusetts has history, and New York has buildings and money and hustle and congestion — but Oregon, that “lovely dappled up-and-down land,” has an ever-green beauty as seductive as the lotus of ancient myth. Even the newcomer succumbs: soon he speaks of Mount Hood as “our mountain” and looks for a home-site from which to view it. Governor Charles A. Sprague, in his foreword, called the book the major accomplishment of the Oregon Writers’ Project — more than a conventional guide, an attempt to present the history and heritage of the state as well as its scenery, and to portray Oregon not only to visitors but to Oregonians themselves.

The preface does not flinch from Oregon’s future. Only a few short years, it muses, separate the day when Bryant wrote of the primitive country “where rolls the Oregon and hears no sound” from a present in which Bonneville Dam has cut a gash in the Columbia Gorge and Grand Coulee looms to the north. Oregon remained, the writers believed, the most unspoiled and uncluttered spot in America — spared by the gold rushes that drew the restless to California and Alaska — yet they wondered aloud whether power, immigration, timber-cutting, and the boosting of commerce might transform this peaceful land into a network of highways clogged with cars and hot-dog stands.

Out of those hopes and misgivings the book takes its shape. Part I, “Past and Present,” gathers eighteen essays on the natural setting, the Indians, history, agriculture and industry, racial elements, religion, literature, and such local savors as tall tales, huckleberry cakes, and venison. Part II describes eleven cities and towns, from Astoria and Portland to The Dalles. Part III, “All Over Oregon,” lays out ten numbered tours with their many lettered branches, reaching every corner of the state and closing with the Mount Hood Recreation Area, Crater Lake National Park, and the national forests. Sponsored by the Oregon State Board of Control and published at Portland in 1940 by Binfords & Mort, it remains a loving and clear-eyed portrait of the end of the trail.

Contents

Table of Contents

Oregon: End of the Trail
Prefacevii
General Informationxxi
Calendar of Eventsxxvii
Part I · Past and Present
Oregon Yesterday and Today3
Natural Setting9
Indians33
History40
Agriculture52
Industry, Commerce and Labor60
Transportation69
Racial Elements75
Tall Tales and Legends81
Huckleberry Cakes and Venison86
Sports and Recreation91
Social Welfare95
Education102
Religion107
Literature110
Theater, Music and Art118
Newspapers and Radio135
Architecture141
Part II · Cities and Towns
Astoria149
Corvallis158
Eugene167
Hood River177
Klamath Falls182
Medford187
Oregon City191
Pendleton200
Portland206
Salem228
The Dalles238
Part III · All Over Oregon
Tour 1 · (Caldwell, Idaho) — Ontario — Baker — La Grande — Pendleton — Umatilla — The Dalles — Portland — Astoria [US 30]249
Section a. Idaho Line to Umatilla249
Section b. Umatilla to Portland263
Section c. Portland to Astoria276
Tour 1A · Baker — Hereford — Unity [State 7]283
Tour 1B · Baker — Richland — Homestead [State 86]286
Tour 1C · La Grande — Enterprise — Wallowa Lake [State 82]290
Tour 1D · Arlington — Condon — Fossil — Junction with US 28 [State 19]294
Tour 1E · Hood River — Junction with State 50 [State 35]297
Tour 2 · (Vancouver, Wash.) — Portland — Salem — Junction City — Eugene — Roseburg — Grants Pass — Medford — (Yreka, Calif.) [US 99E-99]300
Section a. (Vancouver, Wash.) to Junction City301
Section b. Junction City to California Line315
Tour 2A · Oregon City — Silverton — Lebanon — Brownsville — Eugene [State 215]332
Tour 2B · Junction with US 99 — Gervais — St. Louis — St. Paul — Champoeg [State 219] and County Roads336
Tour 2C · Salem — Rickreall — Dallas — Junction with State 18 [State 22]341
Tour 2D · Albany — Corvallis — Toledo — Newport [State 26]344
Tour 2E · Philomath Junction — Alsea — Waldport [State 34]347
Tour 2F · Junction with US 99 — Blachley — Florence [State 36]349
Tour 2G · Drain — Elkton — Reedsport [State 38]351
Tour 2H · Coos Junction — Myrtle Point — Coquille [State 42]354
Tour 2I · Grants Pass — California Line [US 199]358
Tour 3 · Astoria — Tillamook — Newport — North Bend — Marshfield — Gold Beach — (Crescent City, Calif.) [US 101]363
Section a. Astoria to Newport364
Section b. Newport to California Line376
Tour 4 · (Maryhill, Wash.) — Biggs Jnct. — Redmond — Bend — Klamath Falls — (Dorris, Calif.) [US 97]387
Section a. Washington Line to Bend388
Section b. Bend to California Line394
Tour 4A · Junction with US 97 — Maupin — Government Camp — Portland [State 50]401
Tour 4B · Bend — Elk Lake — Junction with US 97 [The Century Drive]407
Tour 4C · Junction with US 97 — Oakridge — Goshen [State 58]410
Tour 4D · Klamath Junction — Fort Klamath — Crater Lake National Park — Medford [State 62]414
Tour 5 · (Wallula, Wash.) — Pendleton — John Day — Burns — Lakeview — New Pine Creek [US 395]417
Section a. Washington Line to Burns417
Section b. Western Junction with State 54 to California Line423
Tour 5A · Burns — Crane — Follyfarm — Fields — Denio [State 78 and unnumbered roads]428
Tour 5B · Burns — French Glen — Blitzen — Fields [State 78 and 205]431
Tour 5C · Valley Falls — Paisley — Silver Lake — Junction with US 97 [State 31]435
Tour 5D · Lakeview — Klamath Falls — Ashland [State 66]438
Tour 6 · Ontario — Vale — John Day — Redmond — Sisters — Springfield — Junction with US 99 [US 28]442
Section a. Ontario to Redmond443
Section b. Redmond to Junction with US 99453
Tour 6A · Cairo — Jordan Valley — Rome [State 201]458
Tour 7 · Vale — Burns — Bend — Sisters — Albany [State 54]464
Section a. Vale to Bend465
Section b. Bend to Albany471
Tour 7A · Little Nash Crater Junction — Detroit — Stayton — Salem [State 222]475
Tour 8 · Portland — Hillsboro — Forest Grove — Tillamook [State 8-6]477
Tour 9 · Junction with State 8 — Wolf Creek — Elsie — Necanicum Junction [unnumbered roads, State 2]484
Tour 10 · Portland — Newberg — McMinnville — Corvallis — Junction City [US 99W]486
Tour 10A · Junction US 99W — Grand Ronde — Junction US 101 [State 18]492
Mount Hood Recreation Area496
Crater Lake National Park502
National Forests511
Part IV · Appendices
Chronology521
A Select Reading List529
Index536

Library Record

Full Bibliographic Record

Title
Oregon: End of the Trail
Author
Compiled by Workers of the Writers’ Program of the Work Projects Administration in the State of Oregon
Series
American Guide Series
Sponsor
Oregon State Board of Control
Foreword
Charles A. Sprague, Governor of Oregon
Publisher
Binfords & Mort, Portland (printed by the Metropolitan Press)
Publication Date
Copyright 1940 by the Oregon State Board of Control
Description
Front matter through xxvii; main text beginning at page 3; eighteen background essays, eleven city and town descriptions, and ten motor tours with lettered branches. Illustrated; tour maps. Includes chronology (521), a select reading list (529), and index (536).
Subjects
Automobile travel — Oregon — Guidebooks; Oregon — Description and travel; Oregon — History; Oregon — Guidebooks